little did i know when i booked my Airbnb that the neighborhood it was in, Užupis, was so…vibrant! it’s just east of Old Town, surrounded on three sides by the Vilnia River, and has a completely different vibe than the rest of the city, more akin to Christiania of Copenhagen but less hippie and more law-abiding (as far as i can tell). despite that, in 1997, the residents of this neighborhood declared themselves an independent republic with a constitution, army, flag, and so on. their independence day is April 1, so take it how you will. 🙂
The main bridge crossing into the “Republic” of Užupis
in the 1990s, Užupis started gentrifying. what was as a long-neglected, abandoned neighborhood has seen its population go from prostitutes and homeless squatters to bohemians and artist squatters to hipsters and coffee shops and even the current mayor of Vilnius. despite these changes (and the influx of tourists taking a peek), i hope the residents can continue its indie spirit.
the art scene (besides lots of street art, to my pleasant surprise) is getting legitimized with the opening of some galleries near the river. most works on public display — especially those down by the river — are humorous and light-hearted, fitting very well with the free spirit of the community. definitely take a walk along the river — there are some cool pieces literally hanging around.
I think sometimes I’m just a pessimist, but I quite enjoy that “Exiting Promised Land” sign.
The constitution
its constitution is printed on mirrored plaques in multiple languages along a wall on Paupio Street — my favorite articles are:
- 4. Everyone has the right to make mistakes.
- 5. Everyone has the right to individuality.
- 6. Everyone has the right to love.
- 33. Everyone has the right to cry.
- 35. No-one has the right to make another person guilty.
before the rest of the pictures, a word about food: there’s a small Iki grocery store (it takes mag stripe credit cards, like most places here, btw) at the square, along with several restaurants. i was unimpressed with the pizzeria on Paupio (despite high ratings on Foursquare, though i only tried it once, to be fair) and the cafe that’s at the river, but up the hill on the main street (Užupio g.) on the right is a French cafe and bakery, Thierry Kepykla. right across the street from my Airbnb, it ended up being my neighborhood haunt. the lattes are pretty good but go for the almond croissants. they came highly recommended on Foursquare, and for good reason. i could eat the filling by the spoonful!
and now, the Instawalk:
The walkway that leads north to the river and out of Užupis
Many of the older buildings are in the process of being renovated, but ever so slowly.
The Angel of Užupis, found on a pillar in the neighborhood’s main plaza. It’s meant to symbolize the dawn of a new age of artistic freedom in Eastern Europe, says Wikipedia.
The constitution of Užupis — and its symbol.
Looking into a courtyard
Many of the bridges that lead to the city have, of course, locks
An old sofa
A trailer and some laundry
Stairs on the north side leading up from the river into the neighborhood
One of the more prominent abandoned buildings around here
The Mermaid of Užupis — by the same sculptor, Romas Vilčiauskas, who did the Angel
today’s my last day in Vilnius, so i must say goodbye, Užupis! stay quirky!
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