before i get started, let me clarify that Tbilisi is not a city stuck in the past. there are lots of curvy modern buildings, my favorite being the three-year-old Public Service Hall, a consolidated government help center where people can get ID cards, passports, marriage certificates, etc.
The interior of the Public Service Hall (consolidated govt building). If only the DMV had photobooths by Starck! pic.twitter.com/9azKwcOliK
— Jonathan Khoo (@jonk) October 1, 2015
Actually only went inside because I made a wrong turn and decided to explore but I am really impressed. pic.twitter.com/COfjcAxkX2
— Jonathan Khoo (@jonk) October 1, 2015
but when a city was established in 479 AD, of course you’re going to get old structures. i’m not, however, talking about the super old, just moderately old — the old that i like, the peeling, crumbling, decaying kind of old that has this understated charm (ok, maybe it’s just me, but i love it).
it all started with my airbnb, which to my amazement, discovered is right underneath the old cable car station (a surprise to me!). and yes, that’s my laundry hanging over the courtyard.
there’s a lot of old old (in the actual Old Town, particularly) — precariously-leaning buildings with balconies that look to be literally at the tipping point, and pre-Soviet old — faded glory Art Nouveau buildings and the like. (unfortunately, the Soviet-era stuff isn’t that great, at least not what i’ve seen, especially compared to other ex-Soviet countries.)
sidebar if you’re looking to get into the fabled painted Art Nouveau building at 36 Aghmashenebeli St., i tried to go today and the literal backdoor (the back door of the clothing shop that could get you in) looks to be gone — that shop has closed for good.
well, without further ado, the decay, abandoned-looking, and abandonment that i love.
did you get propositioned this time ?!
LOL!!! i did not, PHEW!
Really nice photos of old, crumbly city. Nice!
thanks!
Great photos – congrats! Roughly how long were you in Tbilisi? Did you go anywhere else in Georgia? Did you ever feel unsafe in Tbilisi or come across any risky moments? How did the locals react to your shooting their decay?
thanks! i was there for a week, spending most of the time in Tbilisi (since i work while i’m away i need reliable internet, though i probably could have gone to Batumi?). if you were out full time i think you could probably do Tbilisi in 3 days depending on how much you wanted to see and your pace. i never did feel unsafe at all, even when i wasn’t necessarily on the tourist trail, and no one really cared i was taking pictures as far as i know? 😀
i did go on a private tour (link) on the saturday i was there (=my only full day) to the monastery at David Gareja (which was great because you can go on a [kinda strenuous but relatively short] hike over the mountain to the rock-hewn cells and mountaintop chapel (link), passing technically into Azerbaijan (link) depending on whose map you’re following). on the way back we stopped in Sighnaghi (link) which was really quaint and happened to have a wine/harvest festival going on (link) which included traditional performances (link), so that was really cool.
anyways, if you go to Georgia i’m sure you’ll have a great time! i’d love to go back someday and visit other parts of the country!